In Santa Cruz Mountains about an hour drive from Palo Alto reigns the vineyard Bonny Doon, established by the controversial Randahll Grahm, who is doing what he can to challenge the rules, norms and dogmas of winemaking, and who calls himself “the champion of the strange and heterodox”, whilst at the same time celebrating and cherishing the classical wine paradigms.
Bonny Doom in a strange way seems to be able to balance the thing sword of between classic and modern winemaking. Provoking and challenging the rules of the game, WHILST at the same time pushing the envelope in terms of what you can do with classical and natural production methods. An interesting case for innovation!
And let me admit right away, I am a wine enthusiast, with a strong preference for the classical wines of the Rhone Valley, and must therefore admit to being extremely sceptical when I first heard about Randall Grahm the proprietor and guiding spirit behind Bonny Doon. Famous for challenging most all the rules of winemaking, whilst at the same time being one of the most radical of the Rhone Rangers (Winemakers dedicated to advancing the Knowledge of Rhone Grapes grown in America and the enjoyment of the Wines Produced from those Grapes).
But in spite of my conservatism when it comes to the merits of a good wine, I also appreciate when rules are being broken and something new and innovative emerges. And this is exactly what Randall Grahm and the Bonny Doon Vineyard seems to offer. After tasting his Rhone inspired signature wine Cigare Volante, his Zinfandel-based Cardinal Zin, and especially now that his tablewines Big House Red and Big House White , I had to both respect and appreciate his work.
Randall Grahm and Bonny Doon really provide for a great case for innovation. He has made his winery a major power in the California wine industry by exploring demented ideas, by breaking all the accepted rules of marketing and by making wines that are equally as interesting to talk about as they are to drink.There seems to be nothing that he is not ready to do. He freezes grapes to make ice wine, he uses wild labels with exotic names, he collaborates with winemakers in Europe, he is dedicated to riesling in California, Ranger on the cover of the Wine Spectator in his role as the leader of the Rhone Rangers.
The mantra of Bonny Doon goes as follows:
- Have as much fun with wine as the relevant governmental agencies will allow
- Produce wines and wine labels that will scintillate the sensibilities of the most jaded imbiber (to see labels click here)
- Retain as much of the natural qualities of the grapes (especially fragrance) through careful handling and minimal cellar treatment
- Pay close attention to the chestnut that wine is produced in the vineyard
I am – as a wine traditionalist – not much of a fan of Micro-oxygenation and the freezing of grapes, but I can bear with much when the wine is both good and non-expensive, while at the same time challenging and innovative in its approach.
Like the labels for instance, Bonny Doon lables are not the ususal gold-edged, black italics on a white background with a nicely drawn chauteau as most other wine labels. No. Bonny Doon labels feature tattooed ladies, flying saucers, and monkeys in fezes. Some of them are even provocative enough to be banned in Ohio and Washington. Every label want’s you to laugh, to feel, to think. They make use of artists like Ralph Stedman to design their labels.
Randall Grahm truely is a rebel with a cause. For over 20 years this California winemaker has resisted the “bigger is better” ethic practiced by most American wineries. Instead of making palate-numbing powerhouses, Grahm favors wines with finesse. Instead of choosing Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, he favors the likes of Mourvedre, Marsanne, and Malvasia Bianca—grapes that he believes are better suited to California’s climate. Grahm seeks, in short, diversity in the vineyard and deliciousness in the glass.
